Wednesday, December 23, 2009
Greetings from Jerusalem! :)
The first few days of our trip have been amazing--floating in the Dead Sea, visiting Byzantine churches spread with ancient mosaics, eating falafel at least twice a day, and--my personal favorite so far--visiting Mt. Nebo, the moutaintop where Moses saw the Promise Land, and then died.
I can't describe the incredible feeling of standing up there, the sweeping valleys below covered in wispy fog and the glittering Dead Sea to my left. Directly below was barren, grey, a desert--but from the peak you could clearly sea the lush, green, precious Promise Land. Jerusalem, Jericho, the Jordan River--there it lay.
What must Moses have felt? An old man, having been through so much--the struggles, the anguish, the ecstasy he'd experienced--the intimacy with our God. The breeze spilled over my body as I trembled a little at the thought of YHWH, of the Almighty of Exodus--that is my God, and I can trust him and know him as Moses did. Tears filled my eyes as I thought of the sensation of seeing this land for the first time--after 40 years of waiting, of taking God at his Word--at last it was visible, tangible.
Am I willing to wait that long, to trust that much? My God is still faithful.
Went through two hours of hassel at the Israeli border because my of my father's last name--apparently we share a surname with some prominent guerillas. Oops.
Dipped my feet in the Jordan River and the Sea of Galilee...Tonight I am sleeping on the Mount of Olives, tomorrow I will spend the day in Jerusalem and Bethlehem. This has already been a very emotional week for me...God is so near, and so good. I can't wait to share more. But for now...I just wanted to say...
Merry Christmas!
Immanuel--God is with us.
His law is love, and his gospel is peace.
Saturday, December 19, 2009
A New Adventure Begins
Friday, December 18, 2009
Thursday, December 17, 2009
Wednesday, December 16, 2009
Tuesday, December 15, 2009
Remembering. . .
Sunday, December 13, 2009
Friday, December 11, 2009
I hate goodbyes...so I won't say it tonight.
---------------------------------------
[text I got this morning from a student]
"Goodbye friend I hope to you good travels.
Thank you for everything. You are the best
teacher. I love you so much I will miss you.
We are not in the same place but we see the
same sky. Because of this I will see the sky
and remember the days I spent with you.
Thanks for everything. Bye."
--------------------------------------
[over tea this morning, from my adopted 'uncle' Talib]
"We hope to Allah that you will return to us soon.
This is your family, your tent now. You won't leave
us forever, I know that. You'll come back and we will
wait here for you. "
Wednesday, December 9, 2009
I am at a loss, once again, on what to share. It's been three months. To continue to write of the cultural experiences here, or the comedies that make up the day-to-day life here in this place, seems far too ordinary at this point.
Humble, that's where I am tonight.
Humbled by the honor God bestowed upon me when he called me here.
Humbled by the generosity and love of those who have supported me in so many ways.
Humbled by the lavish provision of God--so unmistakably personal, intimate, and undeserved.
Humbled by the night sky I can see from my place here, hung like a robe, thick with jewels, across the heavens.
Humbled by the way my 'brother', Sidahmed, gingerly rubbed my hands a few minutes ago, concerned about my 'cold fingers.'
Humbled by the way God turns my weaknesses into something whole and true.
Humbled by the way my Saharawi friends have brought me close in the most everday and extraordinary moments of their lives.
Humbled by the ways my friends have taught me to celebrate what's real, and disregard the rest.
Humbled to think about where I've come from...
Humbled to consider where I'll go.
Humbled by this peace He's given me, found here, in His hand.
Two days left, and my heart wants to go numb. But instead, it will break some more.
Because He bled, too.
Sunday, December 6, 2009
Friday, December 4, 2009
Eid el Adha, pt 2
As the family finished the final preparations for the sacrifice, I bit my lip and continued my three-day-long debate: would I stay to watch the act, or would I retreat to my room and muffle my ears? I've been known to grow faint at the sight of blood, and I didn't know how I would handle watching an animal suffer--especially after the goat had spent the night outside the tent, bleating pitifully.
As I deliberated, I heard a scuffle across the street and glanced over just in time to see our neighbors' goat meet his end. Shaken, I figured I might as well stay and join my family in the ritual. My motivation was primarily spiritual, not cultural--the sacrifice is meant to commemorate God's provision of a ram to save the life of Ibrahim's (Abraham's) son. The concept of blood sacrifice and God's provision of a replacement is so central to the true story of the Bible, and I had yet to gain a real, tangible understanding of this very gruesome theme. I have been seeking to greater understand Calvary--and here was a valuable opportunity.
So, I gripped my sister Tigera's arm as I watched the men drag out the poor creature, hobbled and spotless white (this detail was not lost on me). I braced myself as they forced it to the ground, and soon jumped back as blood spurted in my direction...
After the deed was done, the family went to work on preparing the meat, and I broke away to bury myself in Isaiah 53 for a few minutes....
"He was wounded for our transgressions....
the Lord laid on him the iniquity of us all.
Like a lamb led to slaughter....
By knowledge of him shall many be counted as righteous
...because he poured out his soul to death."
(God...let our awe of this only grow...let us never grow numb to the supreme price of your rich grace)
As the morning wore on, our sisters burst into the room and announced it was time to enter the tent and receive visitors--but first, we must finish our beauty routine. I managed to escape the traditonal layers of khol eyeliner, but they insisted that I allow some make up. Once I was pronounced acceptable, I joined the family in the tent.
On this day, families live as lavishly as they can afford, passing around glass after glass of delicious sweet tea, dousing their guests in perfume and passing around coals sprinkled with incense. Family members showered each other with kisses, wishing one another a blessed Eid and asking one another for forgiveness. The atmosphere of joy and warmth was truly beautiful--as were the multicolored mehlfas and dra'as they wore.
After a lunch of (very fresh) goat meat, fruit (a special treat), potatoes, and Coca Cola, we dispersed to rest or visit neighbors. A few hours later, we stuffed ourselves into several ancient, borrowed cars and took off for the dunes. We turned off the road and bumped along in the rusty sedans over rocks and sand until we reached our destination--safely, to my mild surprise.
We spread out mats on the soft ground for a picnic of tea and goat kebab, cooked over coals in the sand. We climbed the dunes barefoot, laughing as we tripped and sank on the steep inclines. After watching the sunset, we drove back home--only delayed for 20 minutes when one car sank into a drift of powdery sand.
The night was finished off with more tea and visitors--I slept at 1:30, but several family members did not return until after dawn the next morning.
And that was only the first day. :)
The next two days--well, I won't try to elaborate, but they were some of the most beautiful I've enjoyed on this trip. I spent all the daylight hours trekking from neighborhood to neighborhood, visiting friends, family, and students. The universal atmosphere of peace, goodwill, and joy was such a blessing to me. At every tent I met with the warmest of welcomes, glass after glass of tea, inquiries after the health of myself and my family, and blessings and encouragement on all sides. We shared meals together, we laughed and gossiped. We asked one another for forgiveness--a common theme during this feast. We pressed one another to eat more, and complimented each other on the beautiful make up and clothes we wore. My friends and I spent several hours just ambling through the neighborhood, enjoying the greetings and blessings of those we met on the street.
I can hardly express the beauty of this culture--where nothing is seen as "mine", but everything is "ours". Where the only way to offend a family is by not visiting enough, or not accepting enough of their food or gifts. True generosity and joy--and from people so many Westerners would ignorantly pity if they heard only of their suffering. Yes, they suffer and lack--but, I've found, this 'fact' does not constrain or define them, but rather, they overcome it by clinging to their God and their loved ones, counting these things as the greatest treasure of all. And in this, they are rich.
And so I thank God every day for my new family and friends, who have enriched me so truly.
Tuesday, December 1, 2009
Eid el Adha (pt. 1)
Eid el Adha is a three day feast that takes place at the end of the holy month of Hajj in Ramadan. The weeks leading up to it are saturated with anticipation--families search tirelessly for the best dra'as and mehlfas to wear, prepare a choice goat (or goats) to slaughter, welcome home visiting relatives, and scour the meager markets for the best dates, cakes, and produce to serve in celebration.
I was given two very nice mehlfas to wear, one by my family and one by a concerned student, who handed it to me and sternly asked, "Now teacher, you're going to wear make up and jewelry too, right?" The night before Eid everyone was grinning and giddy, reminding me repeatedly, "It's Eid tomorrow!"
I awoke early to a cold, pomegranate sunrise. (It is in the 40s in the morning here, with no heat apart from the small cluster of coals we use to make tea). Shivering a bit, I put on my nicest mehfla and joined my sister, Shebab, on her way to elsalat--the community prayer.
It was beautiful. We gathered outdoors in the crisp morning, bright-eyed, all dressed in our "gay apparel". We greeted each other with "Have a blessed Eid" and "Please forgive me for anything I've done against you." I joined hundreds of Saharawi in prostrating in the sand at the call of "God is the Greatest!". There is something deeply meaningful in the act--it is so right to bow my face into the sand while murmuring of God's greatness.
Reverence--that is something that is alive and well here, and something I've found sadly lacking in much of the American-Christian psyche. After all, it's the fear of the Lord that is the begininng of wisdom, and this is just one of many things that we ought to learn from our Muslim brothers and sisters. Undeniably, in Christ we have inexhaustible grace and forgiveness--but I've seen so many people miss the real picture. Jesus Christ is not only the Good Shepherd, but the Alpha and the Omega. Our view of God is often so stunted and skewed. Truly, any soul that catches even a glimpse of God's majesty would never trample on the holy cross in the name of 'grace'. Instead, in humility and awe, we would fall silent in gratitude at the cosmic paradox of an infinite God showing us infinite mercy. That is grace, and it should split our very souls...we ought to all throw our faces to the ground every now and then.
(Well that was a rabbit trail...I will have to continue with my story tomorrow. :) )
Sunday, November 29, 2009
I could write about many things--the deeply emotional celebration I witnessed as one Saharawi family welcomed home a brother from the Occupied Territories, the truly unique feast I enjoyed on Thanksgiving with American and Saharawi friends, or the incredible cultural insights and memories I've gained in the celebration of Eid-el-Adha these past three days...
And I will share some of these stories, soon....but all these things pale in comparison to the inexpressible joy it's been to awake and walk each day hand in hand with my God. My eyes fill with tears as I grope for words to express how great my Heavenly Father is, and how my most feeble and imperfect gestures towards him have flooded my life with light--for he is so very near and so very willing to answer when we seek him with sincere hearts. (Luke 11:9-13) I must begin with this most earnest praise--and I will restrain my hand for now, for, like John I know that "all the {blogs} in the world could not contain" what there is to write about my Redeemer.
It is my prayer that you might all come to know the surpassing joy found in our God through Jesus Christ...for "he is not far from each one of us." (Acts 17:27)
In the words of one of my Saharawi sisters, "When you go walking towards God, he comes running towards you."
"As for me, I am poor and needy,
but the LORD takes thought for me." Ps. 40:17
Wednesday, November 25, 2009
My heart is starting to tear a little as my thoughts go in different directions...I'm so thrilled to see my family again (and my friends, in January...)...but I can't bear to anticpate the goodbyes.
I spent the night with Rabab and Fadah last night, two girls I've become very close to in my time here. We watched Turkish soap operas on their tiny television, ate sweets that nearly cracked my teeth, and talked and laughed. In the morning, we gathered around the coals to warm ourselves as one aunt made tea and the mother stirred the insha--a hot drink of water, ground barely, and olive oil. This is another world...and I've learned to love it. "You're saharawi, and I'm your mother," their mother said, grinning.
Today, I'm going with my friend Aiza to a celebration--her aunt was granted permission by Morocco to visit for a week from the Occupied Territory. Life in the Occupied zone is not easy--survellience, suppression, and propoganda make it almost unbearable, I'm told. They'd rather live in remote desert camps than under Morocco, my Saharawi friends insist.
Which brings me to my last bit of news for today...you all should join me in following the story of Aminatou Haidar...a courageous Saharawi woman who is enduring outrageous treatment by the Moroccan government--and even more astounding, she was detained and deported on her return from receiving the Civil Courage Prize in the United States of America.
This world is too small, too connected, for such paradoxes and disparities in justice to exist...read her story here, share it, and raise your voice in protest for her and for these beautiful, deserving, long-suffering people.
http://www.globalpost.com/dispatch/worldview/091119/sahara-hunger-strike?page=0,0
Tuesday, November 24, 2009
Sunday, November 22, 2009
h2o...
We rely on Algerian water trucks to fill the metal koobah containers outside our tent, but the one belonging to my family has a leak...thus, I have had the opportunity to contemplate for the past several days the very important issue of water.
They say the wars of my generation will be fought over water...Now, my family has been able to borrow a pitcher or two here and there in order to cook and take care of the bare necessities, and Sarah and I still buy bottled water to drink, but it has still been a sobering experience.
The 'bathroom' is horrendous. Human excrement is overflowing because we have no way to flush. We have been unable to wash our clothes or our bodies. (Something tells me it is no coincidence that my "mom" and I are both so sick...)
And this is taking place in the middle of a fairly civilized settlement. They are still able to scavenge enough water to get by.
It is absolutely heartbreaking to realize that there is a much more terrible story taking place every day on this tiny planet. Over 1 billion people lack safe drinking water EVERY DAY. With NO promise of a water truck coming soon.
Fast from water for a day. Google "African/Indian Water Crisis". Or visit h2oafrica.org, waterwellsforafrica.org, or thewaterproject.org and let your heart break.
"And what I say to you I say to all: stay awake." Mark 13:37
Saturday, November 21, 2009
:-/
Once again, I'm on multiple antibiotics....I feel like I swallowed razors...can't eat.
Owww.
Please pray!
Thursday, November 19, 2009
We Brake For Football
And football takes a very prominent place in the hearts of these people, as I learned last night.
Three nights ago, Algeria and Egypt tied in the final qualifying round for the 2010 World Cup. With all the media and tension surrounding the game (which most of you in the West probably didn't here about--but you can google it), watching the first game was intense enough.
But when they tied on Monday night and scheduled a rematch in Sudan for Wednesday evening, the Saharawi people (and millions in the Middle East) collectively held their breath.
Four members of our team were booked to leave early Wednesday morning to head back to the United States. However, upon their arrival to the airport, they were courteously informed that all Air Algerie flights had been re-directed to Khartoum, Sudan for the game. A commercial airline actually discarded their entire schedule in order to fly football fans to Sudan!
Truly, there are some parts of the world that you never begin to understand until you see it for yourself. :-P
So, they are still here, scrambling to reschedule flights and waiting for word on when the Algerian airline will resume normal services. Because here, the unspoken rule seems to be We Brake For Football.
The Algerian cell phone service sent out a mass text saying that they were giving free roaming minutes to all subscribers travelling to the Sudan. All day on Wednesday, people marched around chanting "1, 2, 3, viva Algerie!"
I had to excuse my class early because of the absolute uproar--they couldn't concentrate.
The entire Saharawi population was restless because it was an unusually cloudy day, and they were concerned that they wouldn't be able to gather enough solar energy to power the car batteries they use to run their televisions....But the sun broke in the afternoon, to the profound relief of every Smara resident.
We rounded up at the tent of our friend Talib at 6:30 to join about 15 family members and friends who crammed together, watching with baited breath--2 hours of yelling, cursing, and praying later, we watched the Algerian team triumph, 1-0, over the Egyptian team.
And the celebration began...
Zainabo, my 25 year old Saharawi friend grabbed my arm and dragged me into the street to join the cheering crowds. The voices of 40,000 refugees joined in a chorus of yelling, horn-honking, and banging on the metal water tanks that line the sandy streets--it was the most overwhelming noise I think I've ever heard! We passed boys dancing on top of cars as we shouted with joy and joined in the banging and singing.
After the initial uproar, Zainabo dragged me back down the street to her house, where we all piled into Talib's tiny red VW and joined the zig-zagging procession that sped up and down the main road. An unloaded semi-truck rumbled by, the back filled with dozens of exuberant Sahrawis--three of them jumping up and down on the roof of the cabin.
The impromptu parade splintered, some cars circling crazily in sandy field in front of the UN building, while others, my car included, zoomed straight through the security gates and into the open desert. The winding, unmarked and unlit road was alive with swerving headlights, many cars spontaneously careening off the road and into the vast, dark expanse of sand and rocks.
All this time, we were hanging halfway out of the windows, screaming, banging on the doors, waving Algerian flags or the ends of our muhlfas at everyone and no one in particular. The wind whipped sand into my mouth as we roared along, shouting the Algerian anthem and laughing at our own ridiculousness.
The cheering and horn-honking continued late into the night, and again, this morning, people have continued for several hours to fill the air with the sounds of cheers, banging, and horns. The celebration continues, with congratulatory texts lighting up everyones' mobiles and Algerian green being touted proudly in every way, shape, and form.
What a special night...what laughter and memories! But most of all, Janet's words stuck with me--words she uttered as my friends and I tumbled into the school to say congratulations after we returned from our joyride....
(Janet is the woman who first began working with the Saharawi in 1999 and has been the head of all that has grown out of it)
"This is all for a game--and it's not even their country. I can only imagine the celebration we will witness when it is finally time for them to go home..."
Tuesday, November 10, 2009
God isn't boring.
This has been a surreal week. Incredible.
I feel like Mary, "treasuring these things up in my heart"
I won't share too much...
But on Monday, I spoke the Word in front of imams, military leaders, and politicians from several nations...It was unexpected...but God actually used me.
I've met some incredible people who in a few days are unveiling huge things in my life and possibly in my future...
And today, I met the President of the Arab Saharan Democratic Republic...We had lunch at his residence!
Like I said...surreal.
And it's only just the beginning!!
My prayer/prayer request...that we would continue to receive guidance and annointing from the Spirit, and that God would give me the faith to step into the role he has given me to play...
Sunday, November 8, 2009
Saturday, November 7, 2009
Crazy week ahead!!
At the end of the week, we are also hosting a women’s seminar. This has also become a huge event in the refugee camp—I will write more later!
Wednesday, November 4, 2009
Cheryl: "Yeah, he lives there."
.....................................................
Anyway, I got some new antibiotics yesterday, and, praise the Lord, I am starting to feel human again. My fever is gone and I am starting to be able to eat normally.
Next goal: gain 10 pounds.
Monday, November 2, 2009
Warning: Rant Ahead.
I wrote last time about the difficulties here. But I must balance that post with this one, and say: I am not really suffering physically that much at all. Yes, I'm not really enjoying the illness, but I am not in any real danger--I am just more uncomfortable than I'm used to.
But the reality is this: I am an American. I'm getting out of here in two months. I have insurance. I have vaccines to protect me from the worst diseases, and, as a foreigner, I would be rushed to the front of the line in the hospital if needed. I can't escape privilege, even here.
And I have come to realize that I don’t feel like I’m lacking anything here. Yes, I crave grilled cheese and fresh salads (and diet Coke…). Yes, the internet I had at home worked more often than not and was certainly a lot faster. Yes, sinks and faucets are simpler to use than a hose in the sand.
However, the overwhelming impression I have gained in these last six weeks has not been how unbearable the living conditions are here, but rather how undeniably excessive our American “standard of living” is. I’ve always been frustrated with the consumer mentality in the USA—even to the point of haughty cynicism.
But this is a new insight. Before, I criticized our culture of entitlement—a system where the desires of a few take precedent over the very survival of many. Now, I’m living among the poor—not the poorest of the poor, but those who are just barely having their needs met. And you know what? It’s NOT that hard. And, if you ask them, many would tell you they don't consider themselves poor at all. One of my students, who lives on UN food rations, told me the other day, "I thank God, because I have everything I need."
People have made comments to other members of my team, saying things like, “I could never do that (come and live in Africa).”
You know what? We all can do something like this. No one should be unable to live in humble conditions, eating simple meals and experiencing what these people have endured for 35 years. Just because we have comfort and luxury doesn’t mean we are somehow incapable of enduring less. Just because we don’t HAVE to suffer doesn’t mean we should give ourselves license to believe that we CAN’T. In fact, maybe God is calling more of us to renounce the possessions we have dubbed as "blessings"...
My last post I spoke of the way I’ve struggled this past week. It comes with the territory, and yes, I was very sick. HOWEVER, I failed to mention that the small refugee hospital has also been flooded with Saharawi patients this past month, as food poisoning and other illnesses have spread rapidly. I am just one of them. Before coming here, it was a lot more comfortable to be ill (movies, saltine crackers, gatorade, Nyquil...)—but it is no greater tragedy for me to fall ill than it is for any one of my neighbors to be sick.
Americans are not that fragile--there is no genetic difference between "us" and "them", and we must give up our double standards...Either, it's okay for an American to go hungry and without good healthcare, or it's NOT okay for ANYONE to do so. Let's make up our minds.
(Disclaimer: this is not actually directed at any of you. . . This is just an insight into the aforementioned cynicism I'm afraid I fall pray to. I believe that much of what I said, though, has merit. Please excuse any pride and anger that (likely) may have motivated this outburst.)
Saturday, October 31, 2009
Delicious Despair
Partly, this is due to the fact that the internet has been down for a while...
But mostly, it is because this last week was a very dark time for me.
I have decided to be vulnerable and place these thoughts before you, in the hope that someone might find encouragement in them...
I got sick--again. For several days my stomach hurt so much I could barely eat, and in addition, I got a nasty cold that left me wheezing, weepy-eyed, and, for a few days, barely able to speak.
I was also seized with another illness--acute homesickness. Visions of the beauty of my beloved autumn back home haunted me. I was filled with longing to see my family again, to feel safe and comfortable, to be reunited with so many friends I love and haven't seen for months.
I felt the demands of the physical, emotional, and spiritual realities here start to overwhelm me. My body was severly weakened, and my spirit, even more so. I felt useless in the face of so much suffering, and ashamed of my desire to return to my life of privelige. I felt myself fighting feelings of despair.
What I didn't realize, though, was that this week was a gift. These days of darkness were simply God's way of lavishing his grace on me.
You see, he loved me enough to break me.
All along, He has been longing to carry me in His arms, but I, in my pride, prefered to walk on my own.
And so he tripped me....
....so that he could break my fall.
And as I was plunged into my own weakness, I found myself sinking into grace.
His ever-fresh mercies envelope me more in my brokenness than I could ever experience in pride and self-sufficiency.
I am so thankful that he let me fall apart.
As I cracked and shattered, he bent near and whispered. . .
"Behold, I make all things new."
Sunday, October 25, 2009
Blessing
I spent the day with two of my students, Rabab and Fadah. What an honor. When I arrived at their home, the floor was spread with lovely meal of pasta, bread, and potatoes (no such thing as low carb here!). It was absolutely humbling to see the care that Rabab had put into the meal and to be the object of such ferocious hospitality (‘Eat, Teacher! This is your house. Eat some more!’). I have still not gotten over the remarkable dignity and generosity of the people here, even in such circumstances of lack.
The girls are breathtaking. Fadah (18), the youngest, with her dancing brown eyes, mischevious grin, and the confident stride of the well-loved baby sister…always leaning against me or holding my hand.
And Rabab (20)…what a precious girl. In my eyes, she is a true hero. With her father dead and her brothers gone, she’s been a pillar of strength in her family for years—from far too young an age, I believe. She gives endlessly and doesn’t raise a finger on her own behalf, yet works tirelessly for others—cleaning, cooking, working every afternoon, caring for family members and neighbors. But her eyes lack the sparkle of Fadah’s. Why? Is she burdened? Weary? Lonely? I will make it my aim to do what I can to ease whatever silent load she bears. I long to refresh and encourage her the way she does for so many others.
After lunch and a few hours of visiting, a faint sound of music reached our ears. “Teacher! A wedding! Let’s go!” In Saharawi culture, they informed me, weddings are an open event for the entire neighborhood. So we grabbed our scarves and dashed out the door, following the sound of the drums and singing. We discovered the tent a few blocks away and wriggled our way in. I instantly felt as if I had been flown centuries into the past. Women wrapped in dazzling mehlfas, men dancing in brilliant blue dra’as and turbans—I could have easily been in a remote Bedouin tent in some bygone century.
After soaking in the scene for about twenty minutes, the girls drew me outside the tent, where many neighbors, children, and Spanish journalists and human rights workers had gathered. The sun was beginning to dip, and everything was awash with the orange glow of the Maghreb sunset. And we began to dance. Laughing, spinning, clapping, snapping, stumbling…until the sun fell behind the horizon…
And when the girls pressed my hands as we parted that night, our eyes all spoke the same message to one another—“It has been my honor to be with you today.”
Tuesday, October 20, 2009
What a concept—my inner American riots at the thought of it.
Yet helplessness, dependence, and lack of autonomy seems to be a central underpinning to life here. The rhythm of the refugee is integrally linked to outside forces—remote agreements made in the United Nations, the fickle forces of nature, the arrival of the next shipment of emergency rations.
Being thrust into this rhythm for the past four weeks has certainly been a foreign experience for me. Although I’ve travelled most of my life and lived outside the US before, I was still raised with much of the American mentality—one of independence and an almost idolatrous faith in the power of the Choice. Yet here I am, in the land of the Choice-less, among people who live, to a great extent, the lives they are forced to, not the lives that they desire.
My Saharawi family recently received several kilos of flour from the World Food Programme. Thus, we have been eating plain white bread twice a day for the past week—because that’s what they were handed. Before that, we had been given beans, so my creative Saharawi mom served those up in whatever form she could concoct. Because here, we take what we’re given and we try and imagine it’s what we want.
Yes, we aren’t starving, although 1 in 3 children here are malnourished. Yes, there are makeshift roofs over our heads, but they crumble and dissolve when the rain falls. It’s humbling and sobering and occasionally enraging, living here, in the land of the anti-Choice.
Saturday, October 17, 2009
On Thursday, my English class and I met at the school to embark on a grand adventure: prepare lunch together.
We met at ten o’clock in the kitchen at the school, a small, tiled room equipped with a sink that doesn’t work, a set of plastic lawn chairs, a gas stove that only half works, a large pail of water, and a hodge-podge assortment of plastic silverware.
I have 8 students--bright-eyed, brave, and very unique young women, all of them. We began our effort in earnest, chatting gaily as we peeled our way through a mountain of potatoes. Soon, though, the situation evolved into a pseudo-dance party, as some of the girls hiked up their mulfas and taught me how to salsa, while the other girls ducked every time the gas stove went WOOSH!!!
We laughed, they inquired over and over again why I don’t have a boyfriend, they told me of their own love lives, they taught me how to clean and cook a chicken using only one pot, and we ran to a nearby tent to beg for some onions. We shooed away neighbor boys who were drawn in by the smell of cooking food—GIRLS ONLY!! We sang along to Celine Dion at the top of our lungs, and they taught me how to make salad dressing. They watched me with bewilderment as I demonstrated how to make “American Potatoes” (mashed potatoes). They scurried back and forth between the kitchen and our class room, eventually blindfolding me and leading me into the room, where they revealed with delight that they had transformed the room into a banquet hall.
Chicken, potatoes, fruit, salad, Coca Cola, yogurt, and bread—it was indeed a feast, and we had done it together. (They absolutely loved the American Potatoes, by the way…) We lingered over the meal for over an hour, laughing, gossiping, and eating—then, bellies full, we spent another hour scrubbing down the kitchen—a bigger adventure than the preparation, I assure you.
It is an incredible gift to be in these girls’ lives. To literally break bread with them, to hear their stories, to bless them and be blessed. It was an exhausting, 7 hour project….But when the girls announced they wanted to do this again, soon, I nodded as earnestly as the rest. What an honor.
Tuesday, October 13, 2009
Selah
I lay next to Tikera, my Saharawi sister, and could hardly keep from wriggling with delight under my blanket.
I’ve never experienced a more brilliant sight than the jeweled majesty that was spread above us.
Quivering diamonds, bright, pulsing planets, and the creamy cascade of the Milky Way spelled glory, glory, glory, and I could not sleep, because my heart sang along. With each shooting star that darted across the heavens, I forgot my tired, dusty body and I felt myself caught up in an ancient, living song. I felt tiny but so very, very safe.
“Is not God in the heights of heaven?
And see how lofty are the highest stars!” (Job 22:12)
And still, the I Am of the galaxies and ages was beside me, and I could feel his breath on my cheek. I fell asleep in the arms of El Shaddai, the Unapproachable One who is so desperately near, so preciously personal. And it was close to eternity, last night.
Friday, October 9, 2009
I knew this period would come.
I want to watch the seasons change back home. I want be near my loved ones. I want to rest on a real bed and drink cold, clean water.
I’m tired. I’m sick. I’m covered from head to toe with bug bites that keep me up at night. I feel frazzled and small and un-beautiful.
I haven’t cried since I left home, but I came very close today.
I know this won’t last. I know this is worth it. But that doesn’t make it any easier.
I thank God for the perseverance and courage I know I am gaining. I truly am excited for the ways I'm being refined and stretched. I pray I’ll be able to manifest Christ in a whole new way as I travel through these months. . .
Miss you all....
"Consider it pure joy, my brothers, whenever you face trials of many kinds, because you know that the testing of your faith develops perseverance. Perseverance must finish it's work so that you may be mature and complete, not lacking anything." James 1:2-4
Tuesday, October 6, 2009
-Donald Miller, A Million Miles in a Thousand Years
Well, if this is true, I should take heart. Today was an especially difficult day.
Sunday, October 4, 2009
Bon appetite
(Power shuts off in the camps at night, and we eat dinner in the dark)
::Chewing::
Me: "This is pretty good."
Miriam: "Mmm..." *flips on her flashlight* "WHAT'S THAT?!"
Me: "Dang girl, why you gotta be like that? Why you gotta turn on a flashlight?!"
Moral of the story: Some things are better eaten in the dark, especially when you find yourself in an African refugee camp.
Saturday, October 3, 2009
Rub a dub dub....
How does a shower here look, you ask? Let me set the scene: A 6x6 ft sand-brick shanty/outhouse with a sandy cement floor. At one wall is a ceramic tile with a hole in the middle. This is the toilet, or “squatty potty”. Yeah, it does smell, if you’re wondering.
A large bucket is filled with water from the large barrels that are trucked in by NGOs—there is not much to go around, so any sort of running water for a shower is out of the question. Instead, you fill the bucket with water and use a large cup to scoop the water out and pour it over your body, whilst standing near the “drain” (toilet).
It was a rather tedious process, and very chilly. ‘Washing’ my hair was particularly difficult…it’s not easy to rinse. However, it was the first time since I arrived that I got the chance to wash myself with water—for the most part, our hygienic routines consist of wet wipes. So, all things considered, it was quite a luxury, and I enjoyed it immensely.
I’m expecting that some of you are horrified. That’s okay…I might be dusty, but I feel alive.
Friday, October 2, 2009
I absolutely love my family. My two younger “sisters” and I have been able to spend a good amount of time together—In fact, I couldn’t get away from them if I tried. Whenever Miriam and return home, little Selma comes running out to us, her little bare feet kicking up puffs of dust behind her. She hugs our knees and kisses us and leads us inside.
Selma is pretty relentless—she’s so full of energy, always babbling in Hesseniya, running back and forth, jumping on our laps (or our faces when we’re trying to rest!), and squealing with delight at the tiniest little pleasure. I absolutely love playing with Selma, and after a few minutes with her I’m always laughing hysterically.
Shebab and I are also becoming very close. My Arabic is rapidly improving, since she forces me into conversation whenever she catches me at home. (Whether I’m sleeping, reading, writing, or on the phone—it doesn’t matter, when she wants to talk, it’s time to talk!). We spent over an hour yesterday talking about school, her future, and boys. (She’s let me in on the elaborate drama of her love life, always admonishing me, “but don’t tell momma.”)
Last night was a difficult one for both of us, though. Shebab had been planning to head off to college in Algiers this weekend, and I was so excited for her. But last night I noticed her sitting alone outside the door, her usually animated face looking extremely downcast. I asked her repeatedly what was wrong, but for a long time her only response was silence.
She told me we could talk inside the tent, and so I went in with her and sat by her mat. After a few minutes of silently wiping away tears, she told me that her mom had just told her she wouldn’t be able to go away to school. When she told me this, my heart broke—not only for her loss, but also for the courage and humility in her eyes as she tried to hide the disappointment.
In broken Arabic, I tried to reassure her and offer her some comfort, but soon we both fell silent. She took my hand and simply held it. I sat by her for a quarter of an hour, in the dark, her hand in mine, just wanting her to know she wasn’t alone. I wanted to offer hope, but sometimes all you can do is try and ward off despair.
By the time the rest of the family returned from the neighbors’, it was about 1 A.M. When Shebab heard them coming, she told me to go to my bed, and leaned over and kissed me on the cheek. “Thank you sister. I’m not sad. It’s nothing.” Her eyes were still gleaming with tears, and so were mine. But what was left to say?
Love hurts.
Wednesday, September 30, 2009
School Begins
I am so humbled…
I was a bit nervous at first, but the girls immediately disarmed me. They range in age from 17-21, and are all uniquely beautiful and gifted. What caught me so off-guard, though, was the way they seemed to admire me.
They really had no reason to—we had just met, and it would have seemed to make more sense for them to be shy, or critical, or apprehensive. But no, one of the first things that my student Fadah said was “teacher, I have to tell you that I know that you are very beautiful.” They all nodded in agreement and began eagerly pelting me with questions about life in America, my family, my likes and dislikes and “what you are most good at cooking?”
They humbly asked for help and clarification on spelling and grammar and eagerly asked for more new words. They told me how grateful they were to have me “come all the way to see us.” When I told them I’d be here for three months, they said “Oh, that’s too short—will you come back??”
It wasn’t five minutes before they said, “Teacher, I want you to come to my home and I will cook for you anytime. I can make spaghetti with cheese and anything you like. I want you to come always to my house.” The other girls echoed in agreement, each trying to out-do the other with promises of hospitality.
The most touching moment came at the end, though. After the lesson ended, my students wrapped up their faces in dusty scarves, gathered their tattered notebooks, and lined up to kiss me warmly on both cheeks, saying “Thank you teacher, thank you. Take care of yourself, and sweet dreams” ( hehe…)
One student, Miriam, hung back. My shyest student, she waited until the other girls dispersed and then came up and touched my arm, saying, “Teacher, I want you to know, if you need help with anything—you need food or a mulfha, or anything at all, tell me, and I will help you. You are my sister, and my mother, and my brother.”
I am welling up again with tears as I write this. These women are so full of hope and life and kindness, even in the midst of such desolate surroundings. Any inkling I had of unilateral blessing has been demolished—I will certainly be blessed as much, if not more, as these girls in the coming months.
It's already worth it...
Monday, September 28, 2009
Lots of young women are pouring in, and I got to meet a few of my future students!
The women here are beautiful and definitely have a mind of their own--most of them are very spirited and outgoing, from what I've seen. They all are eager to meet their teachers (myself, Jessica, and Sarah)--or as they call us sometimes, "professor" (haha!).
I am already falling in love with these people, and I am so humbled and honored by the grace and generosity they've already shared with us.
I wonder, as I look at the faces of the older generation here, what it must feel like to be reduced to this state. They are doing the best they can and I am amazed at the way they've managed to continue having joy despite the poverty and injustice. They were driven from their homes in 1975 by military force, and many, like my host "mother" Barika, or Jessica's "grandmother", surely remember not only the terror of fleeing for their lives, but also they way things "used to be".
How must it feel, then, to be forced to spend over 30 years in crumbling, make-shift huts and tents, eating donated "emergency rations" year after year, and watching your children and grandchildren grow up with such limited opportunities? This is injustice, and it hurts me to see it--how must it sting them?
It is only right to suffer with them--it is only right to come here and brush cheeks with their children, drink their tea and sleep beside them, to try and fight off the demons of despair that have begun to set in.
Last night was a huge blessing to me...we went to the home of Talib, an extremely gifted middle-aged man who was educated abroad in agriculture and who has returned to help cultivate gardens here in the desert. His work is incredible, and vegetable gardens are springing up here in the Sahara--check out : www.notforgotteninternational.org/nfi-programs.html
Anyway, we (Myself, Sarah, Phil, and Jess) visited his family around 9:00 p.m., where we gathered in his tent for a game of cards and tea. His sisters, nephews, cousins, nieces, and brothers all streamed in and out of the tent, striking up conversations in Arabic, Hessiniya, Spanish, and English--sometimes all four in the same sentence. Luckily, Talib speaks English, and is a wonderful help translating and teaching our team. (although Jess knows quite a bit of Hesseniya)
It was an incredible amount of fun. The card game was nice, but the company was hilarious. Everyone was so warm, so welcoming, so full of laughter. We are all picking up more Hessiniya, and Talib's sister is going to tutor me in proper Arabic while I'm here. We drank sweet, minty tea (three 'rounds', which is a huge ceremony in itself and lasts about 3 hours). Sarah and I have already had 18 cups of tea since we arrived two days ago. :)
Anyway, I'm doing well. I've encountered bugs and spiders of many shapes and sizes, and chewed quite a bit of sand along with my rice. But these are small adjustments I need to make, that's all. I feel very blessed to be here. :)
My camera is still unfound. :'( I can't deny I have to fight back tears when I think about it. If I can make one selfish request, please do pray that it is somehow found. But pray also that I look more like Christ, not less, because of this.
Miss you all. Please pray for our team, that we would remain simple vessels of love and grace and sacrifice. Please pray for the Saharawi people--that a new kind of hope would begin to dawn here in the desert.
Grace and peace to you! <3
Sunday, September 27, 2009
I'm here!
Thursday, September 24, 2009
Departure
“For God, who said ‘Let light shine out of darkness’ has shone in our hearts to give the light of the knowledge of the glory of God in the face of Jesus Christ. But we have this treasure in jars of clay, to show that the surpassing power belongs to God and not to us.” 2 Corinthians 4:6-7
Monday, September 21, 2009
Friday, September 18, 2009
Holy night.
Monday, September 14, 2009
Insomnia...
Saturday, September 12, 2009
The Anatomy of a Fast
Waking up, I think, its the most difficult part. The first sensation you experience is a gnawing, sour hunger. I don't like it.
The hunger subsides within the first two hours, and the middle part of the day is relatively easy.
Thursday, September 10, 2009
2 weeks and counting.
Tuesday, September 8, 2009
Grace
Monday, September 7, 2009
Saturday, September 5, 2009
<3
In view of all this, make every effort to respond to God’s promises. Supplement your faith with a generous provision of moral excellence, and moral excellence with knowledge, and knowledge with self-control, and self-control with patient endurance, and patient endurance with godliness, and godliness with brotherly affection, and brotherly affection with love for everyone. -2 Peter 1:3-7
Thursday, September 3, 2009
A string of small days.
Sunday, August 30, 2009
He told me he likes the evening prayers, where the faithful crowd into the corner mosques to hear the Holy Book read and to pray side-by-side.
"It really reminds you of who you are...which is nothing. You know? It's like, five minutes ago, maybe you were important--maybe you're the boss of people ore making big deals with lots of money--but then Allah has us come into the mosque and touch our heads to the ground and remember that he is everything and we are nothing. Five times a day, we put our faces ot the floor and remember who we are. We live twenty, fifty, amybe a hundred years, and then we disappear again. We're nobody. It doesn't add to God's wealth when we pray--it adds to ours because it reminds us who God is."
I got the chills as he spoke, and my eyes filled with familiar tears--the tears I taste when I receive a hand-written message from the Lord.
My dad spoke the truth--the very words I had heard from God that morning. God had reminded me, just hours before, of how very small I am and how immeasureable he is--the Almighty, the Lord of Lords. Separeate and unspeakably beautiful, awesome beyond our ability to express...This is my precious Savior.
A high view of God is the beginning of everything--fear of the Lord, the trembling humiliation of acknowledging our absolutely finite existence. This is an essential piece of reality--near the very core, I might venture to say.
To believe in a small God is, in my opinion, an incredible failure of logic.
To deny him is one thing--to belittle him is something entirely different.
Holy, holy, holy. Period.
(And, crowning this glory is the unspeakable miracle--one my father didn't share with me--that this God is a Redeemer, a Lover, a Counselor. Tender, tender, tender.)
Friday, August 28, 2009
Ramadan Kareem
Well, friends, I'm here in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia--the city where I made most of my childhood memories. It is a unique, bewildering, bewitching nation of paradoxes, ruled by the arbitrary.
It's currently 113 degrees and blindingly sunny, and our three-room "house" feels stuffy and crowded. Our overworked air-conditioning faithfully cranks in each room, blowing out semi-stale air in an attempt to keep us cool.
It's Friday afternoon, and, having finished with the noon prayers (Friday is the Muslim holy day, equivalent to Sunday in America) the whole city lies still. Normally, now would be the time for families to gather to eat a large, late lunch, followed by more sleeping or football-watching. Most people don't stir outside their homes until after sundown.
This is the seventh day of Ramadan, however, which means even more napping and less activity during the day--everyone is hungry, thirsty, and tired, and few businesses will even open before 9 p.m.
Ramadan is a holy, month-long time of fasting in Islam--something very culturally and spiritually significant to many. I observed Ramadan for the first time when I was 9, and it has become something I greatly value and enjoy as part of my Arab heritage.
The fast begins at the Fajr prayer, which this year is around 4:45 am. Families will rise around 4:00 for the sahoor meal, which traditionally consists of foods like goat cheese, watermelon, eggs, and bread. These foods were meant to provide nutrients necessary for enduring long days in the desert--i.e., salt, water, sugar, protein, etc. After prayers, many will return to bed for a few hours, while others will stay awake in prayer or meditation before starting the day.
Muslims will abstain from all food, drink, smoking, and sex for the duration of the day, only breaking the fast at the sounding of the maghrib prayer at sunset, which this year is approximately 6:45 pm. Upon hearing the adhan--call to prayer--we will usually break fast with a date and some water. Prayers follow, then the iftar meal. The evening will be spent in visiting relatives or friends, enjoying tea and delicacies, and, for many, late night shopping. The city really leaps to life after the Isha prayers, around 8 pm, and some don't return home until 4 am, in order to have sahoor and begin again. Many other faithfuls will spend the evenings in the mosque, listening to the Qu'ran read aloud over loudspeakers.
The city is famous for having a mosque at every street corner, so the booming voices of the imams, chanting the Holy Book, will often be heard above the street noise. It's surreal.
Participating in Ramadan as a Christian is a unique and deeply meaningful experience for me. I enjoy the challenge and the spiritual reward of the fast, but, more than anything, the chance to be a part of this culture is precious to me. Islam is a beautiful religion, and the sense of unity and devotion I sense in Muslim relatives, friends, and strangers is inspiring and unique. Indeed, I really feel more warmth and sincerity in many Muslims than in much of the "church" I've encountered in the States. Here, the spiritual is interwoven unapologeticly into every aspect of life--TV programs are interrupted by "Ramadan Kareem" messages, people greet each other with "Peace to you, and many mercies from God!", and believers drop everything five times a day to retreat for prayer.
These are my father's people.